
Italians know that the best hazelnuts in the country come from Piedmont. Even more specifically, they come from the Langhe region, south of Turin: a beautiful and appetising place, seemingly created just for food- and wine-lovers. From gelato to gianduiotti chocolates to even, yes, Nutella, hazelnuts are well used in the local cuisine. But my favourite use for them is this humble hazelnut cake, which was once just an autumn and winter specialty: a way to use up excess nuts at the end of the season.
The classic torta di nocciole is dense with toasted hazelnuts, giving it a texture that is crumbly and even dry (a good excuse to pair some creamy Zabaione with it). Going slightly against tradition, I like to use raw hazelnuts that I pulverise in a food processor just before baking for a moister cake, rather than toasting the nuts or using pre-prepared hazelnut meal. Some like to include a spoonful or two of cocoa powder, but I prefer the nutty flavour of hazelnuts with just a splash of espresso added to the batter.
250 g hazelnuts, raw, shelled, finely ground in a food processor
100 g plain flour (all-purpose flour)
1 1⁄2 tsp baking powder
125 g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
125 g sugar
4 egg, whites and yolks separated
60 ml brewed espresso, freshly brewed, cooled
125 ml full-cream milk (whole milk)
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Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) and grease and line a round spring-form cake tin (approximately 23 cm/9 in in diameter).
Pulverise the in a food processor until fine or like the texture of sand. Place in a large bowl with the and .
Beat the and together in another mixing bowl until creamy and pale.
Separate the into two large mixing bowls and whip the whites to stiff peaks. Add the yolks to the and and mix. Next, add the dry ingredients, then the cooled and , and stir with a spatula or wooden spoon until just combined. Finally, fold in the egg whites.
Gently pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 30–35 minutes, or until the top is springy and deep golden brown – a toothpick inserted into the middle of the cake should come out clean.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely before removing from the tin. This cake keeps well for up to 3 days – store any leftovers in an airtight container or covered in plastic wrap in a cool place.
This cake keeps well for up to 3 days – store any leftovers in an airtight container or covered in plastic wrap in a cool place.