
The Monastery of Theoktistis is high in the mountains in Pygi, a village on the north side of the island. The monastery is dedicated to the Blessed Teoktiste from the island of Lesvos. (According to tradition Lesvos is symbolically connected to Paros and Ikaria.) It is not known for sure when it was built, and there are no monks living there today, but its inscriptions and beautiful frescoes indicate that it was in operation in 1688. There is a housekeeper, Maria, who makes visitors welcome. Maria runs a small coffee shop on the grounds from where you can also buy local herbs, spices and homemade sweets. We order some Greek coffee and her famous loukoumades. In the magical atmosphere, among the forest and the sounds of nature, it’s a perfect place to find peace, sit and enjoy a coffee and loukoumades. One plate won’t be enough.
600 g plain flour (all-purpose flour), sifted
Pinch salt
7 g dried instant yeast
500 ml water, lukewarm
1 tbsp honey, plus to serve
oil, for frying
115 g crushed walnuts, to serve
ground cinnamon, to serve
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In a large bowl combine the sifted and the pinch of salt and make a well in the centre. Place the in a small cup, add a little of the lukewarm and 1 tablespoon honey and stir until it is dissolved. Pour this into the flour, adding the remaining water slowly while mixing with a wooden spoon. The dough will be thick and sticky. Cover and allow to sit in a warm place for about 1–2 hours, until it has doubled in size.
Half-fill a deep saucepan with oil for deep frying and heat to 180°C (350°F). If you do not have a thermometer, simply drop a little of the dough mixture into the oil. If the oil begins to bubble immediately and the dough turns golden, the oil is ready.
Take some of the dough mixture with one spoon and, using another spoon, push it off the spoon into the hot oil. Cook a few doughnuts at a time but be careful not to overcrowd the pot; the oil will cool and the doughnuts will not cook as they should. You will know they are cooked when they rise to the top and are golden brown.
Remove carefully and place on paper towel to drain any excess oil. Continue until all the has been used.
Serve warm with a drizzle of , and a sprinkling of cinnamon.