
This is a dark curry made with a profusion of sweet spices and no coconut milk, so it’s dry and a little oily rather than saucy. It works very nicely with pork, lamb or mutton, and one of my favourite versions of it was made with wild boar. Whichever meat you choose, I find shoulder is best, preferably with a nice amount of fat.
500 g goat shoulder, cut into 2 cm (3/4 in) dice, at room temperature
20 g ghee
4 g curry leaves
60 g eschalot, finely sliced
salt flakes
6 cm lemongrass, bottom of 1 stem, lightly bruised
3 ‒ 4 limes, juiced
3 g chilli powder
20 g long red chillies, finely chopped
7 g garlic, finely chopped
5 g ginger, finely chopped
6 g fenugreek seeds
11 g black curry powder, see my recipe
3 g chilli powder
20 g ghee
4 g curry leaves
60 g eschalot, finely sliced
3 g black curry powder, see my recipe
2 g cardamom seeds
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For this recipe you need to first toast the used for both the spice mix and temper. Place it all in a small saucepan over low heat and toast for 4–5 minutes until dark but not burnt, keeping a very close eye on it as it can catch easily. This process is fraught with danger and will cause coughing if you breathe in too much of the spice. Set aside to cool before halving to add to the spice mix and temper.
Combine the spice mix ingredients (toasted , , , , , and ), massage into the diced , and set aside at room temperature for at least an hour. You can do this the day before and leave it overnight in the fridge if preferred – just make sure you take it out an hour before cooking so it returns to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F).
Melt the in a large flameproof casserole dish or baking dish over a medium heat, add the and cook, stirring, for a minute or so until the leaves are fried. Add the and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7–8 minutes until softened.
Add the meat, increase the heat to high and season well with salt. Cook, stirring, for 8–9 minutes until the meat becomes quite dark and almost fried. Throw in the piece of about halfway through this cooking time. Cover with a lid or foil, then place in the oven and bake for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the temper. Melt the in a medium frying pan over medium–high heat, add the and cook, stirring, for a minute or so until the leaves are fried. Add the and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4–5 minutes until they start to caramelise. Add the , toasted , and and cook, stirring, for another 2 minutes. Set aside.
Take the dish out of the oven and reduce the heat to 200°C (390°F). Give the goat mixture a little stir, then return to the oven for another 20 minutes.
Take the curry out again and stir in the temper. Have a taste – it should be almost cooked by this stage. Cover and return to the oven for a final 10–15 minutes until the meat is dark and crusty but tender to the bite.
Remove the curry from the oven and season generously with and more salt. The flavour should be aromatic with sweet spice and quite hot, with a good tang of lime.