
This curry is an excellent example of the way Maldive fish is used to season a dish. The dried fish adds a little texture to this mild, creamy curry, and brings a savoury, slightly smoky note without actually tasting fishy. The result is a lovely balance of sweet, tangy and earthy flavours.


12 g rice, any variety
40 g grated coconut, see my tips below
50 g ghee, divided
5 g mustard seeds
180 g brown onion, diced
salt flakes
black pepper, freshly ground
3 green bird’s eye chillies, roughly chopped
40 g sri lankan mustard, see my tips
4 g coriander seeds
4 g cumin seeds
10 g curry leaves
20 g maldive fish flakes, see my tips below
14 g brown curry powder, see my recipe
600 g jap pumpkin, mostly peeled, cut into 3 cm (1 1/4 in) chunks, see my tips below
200 ml coconut cream
4 pieces pandan leaf, 5 cm (2 in) each
500 ml water
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Tip the into a small frying pan and gently toast over a low heat for 1–2 minutes until it just begins to colour. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool.
Add the to the pan and toast, stirring constantly so it doesn’t burn, for 2–3 minutes until it is an even dark brown colour. Add to the bowl with the .
Melt 20 g (¾ oz) of the ghee in a small saucepan over a medium heat, add the and cook until they start to pop. Add the , season with salt flakes and black pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5–6 minutes until softened. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Using a mortar and pestle, pound the , and to a coarse paste. Add the onion mix and pound – you won’t get it completely smooth but you can break down the onion quite a lot. This can get a little messy and you may need to do it in batches. Stir in the .
Melt the remaining in a large wide-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the and and fry for a minute. Add the and , reduce the heat to low and cook gently for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stir in the , then add the and mix well to coat. Add the , and , and season again with salt flakes and black pepper.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and stir through the pounded onion mixture. Simmer for 16–18 minutes until the is cooked through and the gravy has thickened.
Taste both the and the sauce before serving. This curry can easily veer into ‘too sweet’ territory, so add salt flakes to taste; it also benefits from plenty of black pepper.
This is also tasty without the Maldive fish, if you want to make a vegetarian dish. You will just need to season it more heavily.
If you are using a different type of pumpkin, make sure it is a firm dry one; anything too watery will make the curry a little insipid. Don’t worry about removing every scrap of skin when peeling the pumpkin – a little skin here and there is fine.


