Rich Poultry Broth
So, while my roasted chicken broth is great for everyday use, some recipes really require a rich, sweet and deeply golden-brown stock. Pasta in brodo is one that springs to mind. Alice Waters used to call this ‘the life-giving broth’, and any time we made it at Chez Panisse she would take a jar to drop off at a sick friend’s house or take it home for herself.
Ingredients 12
2 kg mixed poultry frames, bones
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 onions, sliced
2 carrots, sliced
2 stalks celery, sliced
8 cloves garlic, crushed
200 ml dry madeira
2 bay leaves
1 tbsp black peppercorns
1 bunch thyme
1 tbsp salt
3 l cold water
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Method 6
Preheat the oven to 220ºC (430ºF).
Cut the wings and legs off the birds and cut the rest of the bodies into a few pieces. You can also ask your butcher to do this for you.
Heat a very large stockpot over high heat and add the . When it’s hot, add enough of the pieces to cover the bottom of the pot without overcrowding it. Place the rest of the poultry on a baking tray and roast in the oven until browned all over.
When the meat in the pot is nicely coloured, remove it, leaving the fat behind, then add all your vegetables (the , , , ) and sauté them until they are just starting to turn golden brown. At this stage, add all the browned meat from the oven and the pot back in.
Add the dry and, maintaining a high heat, let that cook out for 2 minutes. Then add the , , and , along with the 3 litres . Add the and bring this up to a simmer. Don’t ever boil it, as the fatty foam that rises to the surface will emulsify into the stock, giving you a cloudy appearance and murky flavour.
Simmer gently, uncovered, for 2 hours. Skim off and discard any foam or excess that floats to the top. Strain and reserve the broth. It can be used straight away or frozen.
Danielle Alvarez's tips
The key to this broth is to seek out some older birds from your butcher. Whether they be squab, turkey, guinea fowl or chicken, those older birds that perhaps have stopped laying eggs are perfect to make a rich and flavourful broth. Their flesh is darker, meatier and too tough for any other use, and their fat more yellow, which produces a beautiful colour and flavour. The only exception to this is duck. Use duck bones here, but the skin is just too fatty to produce a clean broth. I know this mixture of bones is not something readily available at your local shop, but frozen is fine and, with a little notice, any good butcher should be able to source them for you.
The other key is to spend a lot of time browning the bones and meat. It takes longer than you think, and it requires you to flip and turn things around to get them browned on all sides. Feel free to add more bones, but always use a mixture of meat and bones – you really need the meat to add sweetness.
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