Pici, Kombu Butter, Chicken Salt and Parmesan

For the pici, add the flour to a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Add the water and olive oil. With a fork, whisk a small portion of the flour, a little at a time, from the well’s inner rim into the liquid centre, until a shaggy dough forms.

Knead vigorously until dough is smooth and firm, 10 minutes. Cover tightly in plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 1 hour.

Cut off a quarter of the dough (cover the rest) and flatten it with the palm of your hand. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out until about 5 mm (1/4 in) thick. If the dough looks to be pulling, brush it with a very light coating of olive oil to prevent it drying and cracking.

Cut the dough into 5 mm (1/4 in) wide strips then, using your hands, roll into thin strands. Start in the centre and use your fingers and palms to stretch and roll the dough. Pici is meant to be rustic – you are not aiming for evenly rolled perfection here. Keep in mind that the pasta will absorb some water as it cooks and will swell a little in size. Cover pici and repeat with remaining dough.

Bring a pot of water to the boil. Salt your water so it tastes like the sea. Drop in the pici and cook until it floats to the surface – depending on how thickly it has been rolled, this can take between 2 and 5 minutes. Taste and check for bite but no residual flour-like taste.

While the pasta is cooking, add the butter to a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook, until the butter is beginning to foam. Remove from the heat and stir in the liquid kombu.

Working quickly, strain the pasta, add it to the kombu butter in the pan and add the chicken salt. Using tongs, gently mix to coat the pasta in the butter mixture. Taste and adjust the chicken salt.

Transfer to bowls. Grate over some parmesan (generously) and give each serve another smattering of chicken salt. Serve immediately.