
Roll up your sleeves, eat with your hands and mop up the best bits with crusty bread.
1 onion, finely diced
1 tbsp unsalted butter
200 g smoked bacon, diced into 1 cm (½ in) pieces
100 ml dry white wine
1 kg clams (vongole), rinsed
3 tbsp lovage leaves, shredded
1 lemon, juiced
black pepper, to season
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Cook the and in an ovenproof frying pan or baking dish over a medium heat for a few minutes until aromatic.
Add the and continue to cook for a few minutes until the bacon has started to render and colour somewhat.
Add the and . Cover with a lid and continue to cook for a few minutes until most of the clams open, standing guard as they do so. As the clams start to open, transfer to a serving dish and discard any of the clams that haven’t opened.
Add 2 tablespoons of the shredded and to the pan with the clam juices and .
Season with plenty of black pepper and the remaining .
Pour the cooking liquid over the to serve.
Lovage is a perennial herb that is similar both in its appearance and in flavour to celery. The leaves can be used similarly to other soft green herbs, in pestos and salads, or the leaves and their stalks may be sautéed and served in the style of green vegetables.